Replacing studs on the drum

[fordhombre]

Okay, after a big accident involving the wheel, the studs, and some lazy lug nuts, my rim and studs are ruined.

I've taken the drum off several times to replace brake parts and pack bearing, stuff like that.. So i know that the studs are somehow connected to the drum, but i'm not sure how.

So here's the question, are these studs replaceable? Can i go to a parts store and pickup up studs? Or would I be better off pulling a drum off a donor truck and using one of those? Only, i think there was a cross-threaded nut on my parts pickup.

If these studs can be replaced, how do you go about doing it?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

[alvinator]

I may be wrong but I believe you have to knock out the stud from the drum. They are pressed into the drums. Then you can go down and get new studs and press them on the drum. (Press = hammer and a piece of wood, if needed)

[Chasbod]

In the front, the studs are in the drum, in the back, they are in a spindle. But regardless, try to support the drum from the back before you start beating on what's left of the stud. You risk cracking the drum.

And, it's a good idea to replace all of them for balancing purposes. The retail shops have studs that fit our trucks but they aren't exact replicas.

[bluef250]

The studs press out. Use a big hammer - carefully protecting the threads - to remove studs if you do not have a press. The last time I replaced studs I looked through several part houses books. The studs come in many different sizes and many (most) are from overseas. Take a stud with you so you get the same size and configuration. Try to get OEM if you can or at least, US made. The overseas product quality is suspect.

[fordluver]

yup that is correct. what worked well for me was to put the lug nut so it was flush at the end of the stud and hit the stud with a BFH,,,uknow,, big f*** hammer. the stud pushes out then just press the new one in. u might have to heat the drum around the stud with a torch to expand it a little if the stud dont come out.

[fordhombre]

Thanks for all the replies!

My tools are limited, however I do have a bit of wood and just a plain' 'ol hammer. I could possibly get a mallet or mini-sledge if needed.

But if I lay the drum down on a piece of wood, and then screw the lug nuts on just a bit to get a flush hitting area, I can bang the crud out of them and they come out eh? The wood underneath the drum taking punishment so I don't bend the edge of the drum.

Then I go to the parts store (NAPA, or Carquest or something to avoid overseas parts), and bang the new studs in. Now, in putting them in, I have to have the front of the drum in an open area so that the studs will go through.

And this will replace the studs. However, the front-left wheel will have nice, shiny studs, which will look nice and clean and new, which apparently isnlt allowed on my pickup.

So, with the questionable durability of available studs and prices, should I just check my two parts pickups for good drums? I bet i could find one, only it's an hour drive... So, a new question, are left and right drums swappable? and is swappable a word????

Thanks again!

[19674x4]

so you have a 2wd right? because on 4wd, they are attached to the front spidle. yea the best way i found is to put the lug nuts on the studs and beat em out with BFH.

[fordhombre]

correct, 2wd it is.

However, i think i'm leaning more towards just making the trip and pickup up the spare drum.

Thanks again!

[flyboy2610]

The studs are pressed into the spindle and the drum is pressed over the studs. The entire assembly is press fit together. I have heard of people drilling out the holes in the drum just a bit to allow the drum to seat all the way onto the spindle without having to be pressed on, but I don't know what size drill bit you will need.
Does anybody out there know, because that is what I want to do to my drums. So I can pull the drum without hving to remove the spindle.

[Leadfoot]

You don't need a big set of tools, just a crescent and a hammer maybe a set if side cutters to get the cotter pin.
I'VE personally wrecked 1000's of lug nuts & studs on customers cars and trucks over the years.
And changing a stud is very simple.
on Most trucks, off with the spindle nut, them drum, put some wood
under drum, If your reusing the stud use a brass drift, or soft face hammer. or in a pinch put a penny on the end of the stud. Use a good sized hammer and knock it out. try to hit it dead square or you will mess the threads
To put the stud back in with out a press. support the stud hole with some pipe off the floor and hit the stud back in, tap the stud in to the hole starting the nurls, so the stud grabs and space up some washers or large nuts under the lug nut and tighten. If you have air power use a impact gun. done

[mrung0wa]

FYI: If your havin' a hard time gittin' them out they may have been "swaged" (press fit then knurled all around) that's so they'll keep.



Lawrence

[bluef250]

Most of the major parts houses, including NAPA, Carquest, carry whatever they are provided. You have to ask if part is American made. If they are not sure, the part probably comes from overseas.

[fordhombre]

Okay, new shiny studs are in place, the wheel is safely secured and spinning fine, and my arm is sore.

Thanks for all your help!

[mrung0wa]

Most of the major parts houses, including NAPA, Carquest, carry whatever they are provided. You have to ask if part is American made. If they are not sure, the part probably comes from overseas.

What about Canada or Mexico?




Lawrence

[bluef250]

What about Canada and Mexico? Some of the American parts are no better than those from over seas. When folks use the metric standard and convert to English, funny things happen with sizing. That hardware from southern Asia and the subcontinent of Indian is suspect, hardness and quality control standards just has not reached high enough. Then there are the folks (I will call then counterfeiters) who don't use any standards and pass the parts off as first quality. You just have to know and trust your supplier.