Resurrecting dad's old 68 F-100 4x4

[sargentrs]

Don't know if you found this thread or not but it's what I intend to do. The photobucket links don't appear to work any more but I saved all the photos from back when it was originally posted.

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72410

[JoshT]

Yes, I saw it. Photos work for me. I think the new late model regulators I bought might be a little different than what he used, because I they wouldn't have meshed up as well as his did.

[JoshT]

Got the new damper and mounts installed, no pics, but I'll try to get some next time I'm under the truck and its light out. No doubt that I had a bad weld on that previous bracket, could tell just looking at it that it had poor penetration, but that might not have been all of the problem. When installing the new bracket and damper I measured out the compressed and extended lengths of the damper. I purchased what was supposed to be an OEM replacement damper for this truck, but with the steering in neutral position the damper is nearly compressed. I relocated steering linkage mount to give it more travel, but I don't know if its going to stay in position while driving. If it doesn't stay in place I'll need to find a shorter damper that will fit.

While under there I discovered that my power steering is still leaking, red fluid still wet and dripping off the frame rail. I haven't even fired up the truck in over a month any residual should be dried up or nearly gone by now. I won't be driving it again until I get that leak found and fixed, but weather hasn't cooperated yet.

Haven't made any progress on the Power Windows stuff I mentioned yet. I'll be sending emails again this week or next. If I still get nothing, and school hasn't broken the budget, I'll be going with NuRelics and posting the info I have for someone else to pursue if they want. Just wish I could find some parts I'm supposed to have stashed. When planning to DIY the power windows 2 years ago, I purchased the late model regulators and a "joker" switch kit. I liked that kit better than the NuRelics switches, because it uses angled surface mount pods rather than needing to cut through the door panel to mount them. Might have to put a hole in the door cards for mounting screws, but that's it. I don't know where I stashed them and I've torn the house and shop apart, the color matched mirror caps for my car are probably in the same place since I can't find them either. Just hope I didn't accidentally toss them out when cleaning up.

[hfdco4]

Keep plugging along, you will get it all done.

[hfdco4]

Any updates now that the weather is getting better?

[JoshT]

Is it getting better? Seems like every time I might have a chance to work on my stuff its raining or I've got to catch up on the school work.

What's happened since last update. Did more on the car than the truck, it gets me to work every day, so got to take care of it first. Shocks and struts, subframe bushing collars, strut connecting bar. Need to fix headlight switch and clock spring next. Still need to do the brakes, new tires, and an alignment. But you want to know about the truck right?

Fixed power steering leak. The input shaft seal on the steering box was leaking. Not difficult to fix, but could have used an extra set of hands I didn't have. Found what was causing a catch in the steering. When I replaced the spring towers I bolted the shock mounts back to them. Well one of the fasteners going through the rag joint is just barely catching on the nut for the shock tower. Possibly tomorrow, I'm going to lightly grind the stud on the rag joint for clearance, don't worry the rag joint is in good shape and I'm not going to grind where it'll affect the strength. I'll be replacing the steering shaft in the future either when removing the body lift or swapping to a tilt column. When I do that I'll probably delete the rag joint in favor of universal joints and collapsible steering shaft, which will provide plenty of clearance.

Steering damper is still an issue, but maybe I'll be able to fix that tomorrow also. Repositioning the mount on the steering arm didn't fix it, the steering damper is bottoming out on right turns. Of course with the power steering it just bends the brackets like they're made of tin foil. I can's say for certain if the damper I'm being sold is too long, the available aftermarket brackets are not even close to what an F-100 is supposed to use, or if the steering is way out of whack. I'm going to lean towards the damper being too long, possibly combined with the steering being out of whack. I haven't measured anything, but it looks like the wheels turn sharper to the right than left. I'll check that out more when I've got an extra set of hands. In the mean time I'm going to make a bracket to lower and relocate the steering damper mount.

Still haven't found the parts I've misplaced. In a few weeks I'll be done with this semester of school. I'll dig through everything again, and if I haven't found them by then I'll just reorder so I can maybe install power windows over the break.

Pictures to come in the next few days, maybe...

[JoshT]

Mostly been doing school since last update. It's almost over for the semester. Finish up a paper, take another test, and do another physics lab. I'll effectively be done by the weekend and have a month break.

Was going to update with pics, then realized that I don't really have any pics.

Here's my fix for the steering damper. 1 & 1/2" square tubing used to lower and relocate the frame side mount. Seems to be working well so far.

[image]1800[/image]

Scored some better arm rests on eBay. Big improvement since the one on the passenger side practically fall apart when I pulled it to check out the window regulator.

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No pictures of them installed, but maybe in the near future. I'll be pulling the door panels again soon anyway because...

I ordered these today

[JoshT]

Not much change since last update. Got the window regulators delivered and need to figure out my switch wiring since I'm not using the supplied switches.

Decided that I don't like how low the oil pressure is running. According to all the FE "experts" I've read or heard from it would probably last forever as it was. I didn't like seeing it though, so aiming to get a little better before I hire someone to start tuning the engine. To that end I've dropped the pan to install a Melling HV oil pump and will be stepping up to a higher viscosity oil.

I've heard the adage "every FE is a 390 on sale day". Well apparently its been happening for a long time. As mentioned earlier in this thread my father got this truck from his step father. Story is that his step father had swapped in a 390 at some point. Well either dad assumed that, or his step dad was sold a "390". With the pan off I got a look at the crankshaft and it's clearly marked with a 2T, so turns out its a 360. ...NOT!

Actually I'm not upset or particularly disappointed by this. I am happy to know what the bottom end actually is now. Truck still has plenty of power for my purposes, and it was always going to get rebuilt in a few years. Being a 360 kind of opens up the options, it's nothing special I need to worry about keeping. If it had been a 390, I'd want to rebuild it or stroke it into bigger. If it were a 428, it was staying a 428. If it runs like it does as an old 360, nothing I do will be wrong. So now I feel free to find another block to build while I'm enjoying the truck.

[hfdco4]

The 360 does get a bad rap. Change the can and timing set and a good carb, you have a great motor.

[JoshT]

As stated early on in the thread, it's got "upgraded" heads and intake. 427 and 428 components respectively. I'm sure they help a little.

Don't know about a good carb, but the Holley Sniper EFI is doing pretty good and I think it'll improve a lot with tuning.

I don't know anything about the cam. Might be stock, might be upgraded. From the bottom timing chain looks like the stock style. I'm not pulling the timing cover unless I have to. Don't have any intention to change the cam even if I do. When I get around to rebuilding the engine I'll be going bigger displacement, probably aluminum top end, and full roller valve train. I'll probably end up with a custom cam to take advantage of the upgraded components, EFI, and timing control. That's a little ways off though.


The sign of the 360.

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Finished buttoning up the oil pump install today. Not much in the way of pictures there. Before I was getting about 40 PSI at idle when cold, not great when warm at RPM, and ~10 (maybe less) at warm idle. First start with new HV oil pump and 20w-50 oil.

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Didn't run it long enough to warm up, but curious to see what it idles and cruises at. I haven't added any extra oil, but I did put restrictors in the heads when I replaced the intake gasket and way the truck is geared I won't be running high RPMs. Hope I'm safe on oil level with the HV oil pump, but now I'm wandering if I need to drop back down a little in viscosity.

Next up in windows. Got the Nu-Relics window regulators delivered the other week. Now that the oil stuff is done, I'm going to make it where I can stand to drive it more. It's quickly getting to warm in the afternoons to drive with windows up and worn out manual regulators are a pain in the butt.

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Just got to figure out the wiring to make them work with the switches I want to use, and how I'm going to route it into the doors. Nu-Relics has a nice boot setup, which I got, but I don't think its going to work right with how the door hinges are setup on these trucks.

[JoshT]

Update on the truck... no update ...but long post ahead.

Been busy since last update. Work, life, and summer semester of school started up. Next step on the F-100 is the window regulators from the last post. Got the switch and harness kit from Nu-Relics along with their regulators, but I don't want to use their switches and I don't want to cut their harness. I'm going to make some simple jumper harness to go from their harness to my switches. Also got to figure out how I'm going to route wires from the doors into the cab. Kit came with door jamb boots, but I don't like them and only big enough for the window wires while I want to run a few more things. Got some from a parts truck (late model Ranger) that I'm going to see if I can use. If that doesn't work I might just poke a hole, install a grommet and use plastic wire loom tied to a door hinge for now.


Some vehicle stuff not related to the F-100 will be happening soon and it may have an effect on the future of this truck. Don't worry, the F-100 isn't going anywhere, but the build goals may be changing an little. I may have mentioned in the past that this isn't my only truck or only project. I've also got a 1999 Ranger that's currently THE truck and backup to my DD Kia Forte (not that I've actually needed a backup), and a 1986 Ranger that I bought about a decade ago to rebuild then sorta lost interest in.

Don't want to get into troubleshooting and diagnosing here, but the 99 had been a PITA since shortly after I bought it in 05. Among other issues, for some mystery reason it liked to blow head gaskets every couple of years. At the time I could almost time it by mileage, but I've forgotten it now. Last time with that engine we tore it down to bare block had everything inspected and rebuilt it. Nothing was found wrong, but it happened again. Put in a different engine in 2019, haven't had any problem since and I think its sorted. That said, the damage is done, I don't trust the truck anymore. I'm hesitant to drive it out of town. Mostly keeping it going incase the something does happen to the car.

The 86 Ranger was bought as a project to replace the 84 I totaled the year before. Big plans when bought were to swap over everything I put into the 84 and hit the road. That might have happened but plans changed when a $500 V8 explorer fell into my lap. Got in over my head, project stalled. I've gotten back on it a time or two since, but never gotten it put back together. Will happen eventually (or the engine will end up in something else), but right now I'm trying to figure out how I want to advance on it with the EFI. Factory Ford modified to work, or figure out a Terminator X Max system.

Kinda jump store here a little bit...

Well found out last month that my dad had a small stroke back at the beginning of the year. Hopefully not much to worry about going forward, but definitely concerning. Probably won't know the cause for another week or two. They like to camp and the truck they used for pulling the camper is a manual transmission, mom can't drive a manual transmission. My sister and I kind of pushed them into getting a different truck with an auto, and I told them I'd buy their current truck. Well last weekend they drove home a brand new 2021 F-150 XL 4x4 with the 2.7 EB and towing packages. I was worried about the engine when the told me, but their camper and compact tractor are both well within the towing capacity of the truck. Oh... DAMN THAT'S A NICE TRUCK!

So pretty soon I'm going to be the proud owner of a 2000 F-250 XL Powerstroke 4x4. That's the 7.3L powerstroke, with manual transmission and transfer case. Yes, the thought has crossed my mind in the past, but no I'm not dropping the F-100 body onto it. The F-250 is more truck than I'll ever need, but it'll be reliable and pull anything I could ever want. I'll be able to get rid of the unreliable '99 Ranger, and it will support collecting parts and goodies for the other two projects. Don't know if these pics are going to work, they're actually posted over at Ford-Trucks (.com):





So the F-100 isn't going anywhere, but plans for it may change a little. Previously it was going to be built into a nice cruiser/work truck. Mild build working engine, no lift and close to stock tire size, and adding a few creature comforts. Since I won't need it for a work truck anymore, the tires might grow a little, maybe a mild lift, engine might get a little bigger. Still going to get the creature comforts that isn't changing, but might bet a little more effort put into fit and finish and dressing it up. But the next little while after getting the windows done will focus on getting the '99 Ranger to a point I can move it on to the next owner.

[JoshT]

Well 7 months later and nothing has changed. Took delivery of the F-250 some time in June. I'm kind of the opposite of you northern folks, so by then the F-100 had already been parked for the summer. No salt on the roads to worry about during winter, and just too hot during the summer months here to be driving that thing around with no A/C.

Also got too busy with the school stuff during summer semester and fall wasn't too much different. Had some medical stuff to figure out during the last couple of months. Nothing major, just got the surprise that I'm apaprently diabetic so spent a lot of time studying on that and trying to figure out how to eat now. Still working on that, but I think I'm on the right track.

Come around spring semester of this year, big work on the F-100 is still on hold for a few more weeks, because of some maintenance items needed on the F-250. More peace of mind stuff than anything broken, but the normal drivers got to come first. 200K miles so it's getting a lot of refreshing on the top end, new turbo boots, new seals, new glow plugs and o-rings, new turbo up pipes, a tuner, aux gauges, coolant flush and thermostat (only thing currently broken) and maybe a turbo rebuild. Hope to start on that in the next few weeks and be done within a week or two depending on what surprises I find while in there.

Did finally make a little progress on my power windows this weekend. The nurelic kit came with switches that would require cutting large holes to flush mount them in the door panel. I didn't want to do that. Instead I had some surface mount switch pods in a harness kit I had purchased on eBay back when I was going to DIY the actuators. They'll mount over the crank holes with 4 small holes drilled for mounting, holes that can easily be fixed if I want to try something different down the road.


What NuRelic came with


What I had from eBay kit

Of course it wouldn't be as simple as popping the NuRelic into the eBay mount pods, they don't fit. I also couldn't just stick the eBay switches to the NuRelic harness, the connectors and pinout were different. The NuRelic harness was also much better quality than the other, so I was going to use it. During breaks from studying this weekend I hooked up everything to a 12v power supply and proceeded to adapt the switches to the harness and test it out. Hopefully during the week I'll have a chance to figure out how I want to route wires from the door to the cab and actually start installing them.

That also means I'll pop the battery charger on some time this week and get it started to test my work.

[hfdco4]

I am pining you again, how is it going with both trucks?

[JoshT]

Past time to bring back this thread. Unfortunately it took the worst for it to happen. Dad passed last weekend and it seems to have lit some what of a fire under me to get something done with this truck.

Last post I'd taken delivery of the F-250, and was ligning up a power window swap on the F-100. Since then I've done a fair bit of maintenance on the F-250. Did a V8 swap on my 99 Ranger. Installed the power windows on my F-100 and drove it a couple of times.

Ranger needs some transmission work (200k mile trans installed with V8 swap) and the AC system needs to be rebuilt, but it is driving and I'm waniting for weather to cool before digging into the AC.

The F-250 may not be much longer in the fleet. I may be inheriting the F-150 he bought. Still have to talk that over with my sister and see which better fits my future plans. Probably going to be the F-150.

I think in the next year I'm going to be moving the F-100 into dad's shop since and start digging into it for the proper rebuild. I'd rather have had him here to help with it, not sure why I didn't make it a higher priority other than not having a place to do it. Didn't want to tear it down in his shop and occoupy it for an extended period, now I can use it and not get in the way of projects he wants to do. Seems fitting to do it there being his old truck, his shop, and his tools.

Still got decisions to make as to how I'm going to progress with some aspects. It's not going to be a nut and bolt resto, but I do plan to take it down to the frame, treat/repair the rust, and rebuild. Definitely a resto mod. He'd already modded it before I got it, not going to undo any of his though I may go for improved versions. Things I'm sure he would have done if he'd been able to.

Paint and body. The truck is already a mutt of '68 and '70 since he swapped on the later body back in the '80s (or early '90s?). It's going to keep the '70 grill since I think we both liked it better. The 68 body was a Rangoon Red custom package. The '70 was a Deluxe Two-Tone sport custom (?), with lower body and roof painted Maroon, and upper body in Oxford White. Neither of us ever cared for the Royal Maroon. I think it's going to end up Rangoon Red with Oxford White roof, and keeping all of the '70 sport custon trim if I can piece it together decent. Mostly worried about the lower trim and keeping the toolbox. Have a better condition bed that doesn't have the box, but would like to swap it over since I've always known the truck to have it.

Interior, just a refresh. If I can clean it well enough, I'd like to leave the interior the original Oxford White and just replace the upholstery, but we'll have to see how bad the rust patching gets. Already put in a later model F-150 bench seat and it was a great improvement, but it still needs to be recovered to match. The tank will be leaving the interior for rear mounted tank in the frame. Eventually it'll get a Dakota Digital dash, but that might be a ways off, aside from the fuel level stock works well enough for now. Probably install a retro sound radio, but still need to figure out how I'm doing speakers. Not cutting into doors, putting rear speakers behind seat, just want to figure out something for front other than stock mono speaker location. Definitely getting A/C installed, it stays parked most of the year because it's simply too hot to drive.

Drivetrain. Still up in the air on this. Will be getting an overdrive manual transmission. I've almost solidified that it's getting a modular motor (5.4L & 6.8L V10) ZF6 and transfer case. I'm up in the air on what will be powering that transmission. It's got a worn out 360 now that I've already done a Sniper EFI (with timing) on, but still needs to be tuned. I'd rebuild it into atleast a 390, if not larger, aftermarket heads, roller cam, etc. The alternative is to engine swap and the only choice I'll even consider is a 7.3L Gas. Both have their pros and cons, but the nice things is my transmission selection is compatable with either.

Axles. Keeping Dana 44 and 9", they are more than capable for where I'll be using it. If not capable in stock form, they can be with minor upgrades. I've already done disc brake swap in front, but I'd like to pickup another stock D44 to rebuild and do the wilwood brake conversion on. Need stock drum brake spindles for the wilwood conversion, but mine were junked several years ago. For the rear I'll be finding a later model (wider) 31 spline 9" to install, just because I think the extra width looks better. (will likely get a hydroboost too to help with the brakes)

Suspension. Dad did 3" of lift by lowering the coil buckets 1" and installing a 2" body lift. Neither of us particularly care for a body lift, but it was what he could afford to do at the time. I've since had to redo the 1" portion of the lift because the coil buckets were breaking apart fromt he bolt holes, it's disucssed in a previous post. At one point I had considered lowering the truck back to stock and using it as my main full size work truck, but that was before the F-250 came into the picture. Since I've now got a newer full size truck (which ever one stays) I think it's staying lifted, but the body lift is going to go in favor of a proper suspension lift.

Wheels and tires. At one point when I was a kid, dad ran 33s w/15" steel wagon wheels on the truck. By the time I got it he parked in in 2006 it was back down to 31s or 32s (still 15" steel) to get a little better mileage out of it. Currently has metric equivalent 32s on 16" black steel wheels. Plan to keep the 16s if the brake upgrades don't require 17", but will probably go to an aluminum slot mag. Will go back to back to either a 33 or a 35 depending on what I decide for a lift kit.

One of dad's custom touches that I'm torn on is the bumpers. When he installed the body lift he built 3" tube bumpers from old conveyor belt rollers. Front dual tube with winch plate for a Warn 8274, with 8274 installed. Rear single tube. He did have and install an 8274, but it was never wired up and probably never had the cable installed on it. I will be rebuilding the winch and it will go back on the truck. I'm not sure about the bumpers though, they are a little rough for the work being put into the rest of the truck and won't fit with the body lift removed. Even if they would fit and I threw on a coat of paint, I'm not sure they are actually strong enough to rely on for winching anything. Might see about having someone good with fabrication clean them up and reenforce them. Alternatively it would be nice to find one of the old school Warn winch bumpers for the front, and step bumpers are readily available for the rear.

Anyhow, I should be around here and the FB group more in the coming months, trying to prepare for getting back started on this project int he new year. Honestly it's probably going to take that long for me to feel like working on something in the shop without him there. I think the first big thing to figure is the suspension lift, because that is going to set to tone for the rest. Engine, transmission, and axles will be farily easy to swap out after the bulk of the other work is done.