This looks like it is where there are two panels sandwiched together. The moisture has gotten in there and rusted from the inside out. very similar to a V.W. van does at the seams. To fix this properly you would want to cut out a large patch to get in there to get the rust out. Then replace the outer sheet metal with a new patch. There will probably be lots of guys telling you to use some sort of filler or primer or something but if the rust is in there it will keep coming back, if you don't get it out. Are you planning on fixing this yourself or taking it to a shop?
1970 ranger 4x4
1965 mustang needs resto
flh shovelhead
rigid evo
Those are not stress cracks. Your dent on the roof may of caused the weak rust spots on the sides of the roof to rip open. You'll need to see if the roof can be saved... is it still solid?
Last edited by hivewax on Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
ideally you'd cut out the rusted areas and weld in some fresh metal
i'd try making friends with someone who's a welder,it's amazing how much you can talk one into doing for a case of beer (i'm a welder & i get talked into doing stuff like this all the time)
if you do most of the prep work it wouldn't be a hard job at all ,too bad you're down south where its sunny,i could really use a case of beer
- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
Whateverman wrote:too bad you're down south where its sunny,i could really use a case of beer
Move to Victoria Whateverman. I could use a good welder and it's always sunny here!
! yeah -but its not as windy here as it is in Vic!
- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
Whateverman wrote:ideally you'd cut out the rusted areas and weld in some fresh metal
i'd try making friends with someone who's a welder,it's amazing how much you can talk one into doing for a case of beer (i'm a welder & i get talked into doing stuff like this all the time) if you do most of the prep work it wouldn't be a hard job at all ,too bad you're down south where its sunny,i could really use a case of beer
Funny U should mention that. Prior to buying a welder I used to have a local shop weld up stuff that broke on the job at the cemetery. He always charged a 12 pack or 2. Wow U mean people will give me beer to do a little welding 4 them? Holly crap!!! That would be a great retirement job
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68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
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Stop looking at the OUTSIDE of the roof and get in there to the inside ledge of the roof on the interior. Thats where you'll find the cakes of rust, so youve got to start clearing it out completely. Then you can assess how much rust damage youve got and how you want to go about sealing it up,
which if you want to save that cab, I'd advise you to do asap.
jzjames wrote:Stop looking at the OUTSIDE of the roof and get in there to the inside ledge of the roof on the interior. Thats where you'll find the cakes of rust, so youve got to start clearing it out completely. Then you can assess how much rust damage youve got and how you want to go about sealing it up,
which if you want to save that cab, I'd advise you to do asap.
I looked but there is a metal lip where I am unable to see really anything.
It is almost like I need a camera with a flexible lens to get in there.
1967 Flareside Shortbed Crew
1969 390 Ranger Long Bed
Your roof is in good shape compared to mine, and my parts donor is even worse yet. Rust is often called cancer, it just grows and grows until there's no hope left. The rust that you can't see is the type that keeps coming back to haunt you.
I need to fix my roof and was hoping for an easier solution than cutting and welding.
The headliner isn't a problem because there isn't one. I have hand sanded some, and used a cup wire brush in a couple of areas. However, I wish I had a soda blaster because it looks like it is the best way to get the job done quickly. I know that it takes a combination of different methods to get done properly.
Any suggestions on soda blasters would be appreciated. Eastwood and HF come to mind but not any particular model
1967 Flareside Shortbed Crew
1969 390 Ranger Long Bed