Cab Mount, Floor Pan replacement question

[Buckethead03]

I just got the new cab in the garage and have been surveying the damage and the repair panels to fix the damage. I thought that the cab mounts were in pretty good shape but i just noticed that there is some rust damage in the floor area just opposite the cab mount. I was hoping that since the mounts were in such good condition with no rust on the underside that all i would have to do is replace the floor pans and move on. How should I go about repairing the damaged flooring opposite the mount? Does the NPD or DC floor pan cover this area? Should I buy the floor pan and the cab mount both or can I use the original and just weld over it? I am a total noob when it comes to fabricating. I am learning as I go. Also, what should I do around the kick panel area where the pan meets the kick panel? There are holes in the seam. Thanks

[67mann]

...your floor pans are shot and it looks like your mounts can be saved. Look in "Projects" under TylerB,67nukeford,myself and many others that have "been there/done it" for ideas and insights on how to go about it.Floor pans can be had from many suppliers and 73-79 will work too. I would definatly sandblast any parts to be reused and primed with weldable primer

Don't be scared......DIVE right in....take pic's & measurements beforehand

[Joe_68_F100]

You can remove the old cab mounts, but there are a ton of spot welds holding them on. By the time I got my old cab mounts off, they were so cut and bent up that I would have spent more time getting them back in shape than it took me to custom form the new mounts.

You may save yourself alot of time wrestling with scrap iron if you just plan on replacing the mounts along with the floor.

After getting my cab blasted, I had a bunch of holes along the floor pan / kick panel area and welded them all up. I shot rust converter, encapsulator, primer, and paint into all the access holes on the firewall side with a bug sprayer. Then with the cab on it's back, I poured foundation coating into the gap between the floor pan, kick plate and door jam. It seemed to work pretty good for me and certainly looks like everything is sealed pretty good.

[Buckethead03]

You can remove the old cab mounts, but there are a ton of spot welds holding them on. By the time I got my old cab mounts off, they were so cut and bent up that I would have spent more time getting them back in shape than it took me to custom form the new mounts.

You may save yourself alot of time wrestling with scrap iron if you just plan on replacing the mounts along with the floor.

After getting my cab blasted, I had a bunch of holes along the floor pan / kick panel area and welded them all up. I shot rust converter, encapsulator, primer, and paint into all the access holes on the firewall side with a bug sprayer. Then with the cab on it's back, I poured foundation coating into the gap between the floor pan, kick plate and door jam. It seemed to work pretty good for me and certainly looks like everything is sealed pretty good.

Thanks for the info. I have been thinking about it and have decided to go ahead ad buy the new cab mounts as well. Both DC and NPD are just an hours drive from me, so I have to figure out where I want to get my parts. I may just get the NPD panels and hope for the best. I am having a hard time justifying the 85.00 each cab mounts and the 60.00 each floor pans from DC when Npd has them for 39.99 and 24.95 each.

[Joe_68_F100]

I ordered the LMC pans and mounts. They were lighter gauge steel than I would have liked, and I had to shape the cab mounts quite a bit to get them to fit right - especially the passenger side, but I'm happy with the end result.

I ordered cross brace replacements from Mac's, and they were great. Good thick metal and they fit right in.

Good Luck!

[Buckethead03]

I went ahead and purchased the pans and mounts from NPD. The mounts seem pretty solid, although they are much bigger than the originals. I am going to jump in and see what i can get done. Gotta start somewhere i guess. Wish me luck.

[67mann]

You can remove the old cab mounts, but there are a ton of spot welds holding them on. By the time I got my old cab mounts off, they were so cut and bent up that I would have spent more time getting them back in shape than it took me to custom form the new mounts.

With an actual "spot weld cutter"this should not have happenedIf you can save original mount.....it is by far better constucted than any aftermarket,maybe with the exception of DC's

Then with the cab on it's back, I poured foundation coating into the gap between the floor pan, kick plate and door jam. It seemed to work pretty good for me and certainly looks like everything is sealed pretty good.

I'm pretty sure this will do nothing but trap moisture on the inside of your sheet metal as time allows

[Buckethead03]

I am going to remove the original mounts and thoroughly inspect them. If I can get them off without damaging them, and the underside looks ok I may try and reuse them. Somewhere I read that the mount had to be cut to remove some of the spot welds. I am going to try to get started on it this evening and hopefully things will work out and I will be able to reuse the original mounts.